O luxo das marcas italianas está sendo feito a que custo? A indústria da moda italiana respondeu às acusações da existência de baixos salários e trabalho não declarado, reveladas num artigo do New York Times (NYT), dizendo que o problema é limitado e já está a ser resolvido.
Portanto: “O problema de trabalho ilegal existe em todo o mundo e os negócios de luxo são os mais ativos na luta contra esse fenômeno”, revelou Carlo Capasa, presidente da Câmara do Comércio da Moda Italiana. “Mencionar algumas unidades que ficam fora do radar parece-me um pouco pretensioso», afirmou à AFP, na Semana da Moda de Milão, depois de a investigação ser publicada na primeira página no NYT, com o título “Inside Italy’s Shadow Economy”, ou seja, “Dentro da economia paralela italiana”.
O artigo refere que “milhares de trabalhadores, com baixas remunerações, costuram, em sua casa, peças de luxo, sem contrato ou seguro» e cita uma mulher que recebe cerca de um euro por hora para costurar em casa. São apontados dois outros trabalhadores, um dos quais fala acerca das condições de trabalho de há 10 anos e outra trabalhadora que não revela qual o seu salário.
A Câmara do Comércio da Moda Italiana emitiu uma declaração, em resposta ao artigo, dizendo que a única informação acerca da escala do problema referida no artigo citava Tania Toffanin, autora do livro de 2016 “Fabbriche Invisibili” (Fábricas Invisíveis).
A autora “estimava que existem entre duas a quatro mil pessoas a trabalhar na indústria do vestuário a partir de casa”, em Itália, escreveu o NYT. “No contexto de uma grande indústria que emprega cerca de 620 mil pessoas em 67 mil empresas, é claro que os trabalhadores irregulares são uma anormalidade”, lia-se na declaração de Carlo Capasa que reconheceu que o objetivo é ter zero trabalhadores irregulares na indústria. “Vai demorar algum tempo, mas estamos a lutar por isso”, garantiu.
Roberto Manzoni, líder da Fismo, a Federação Italiana para o Setor da Moda, entretanto, justificou os baixos salários com a vontade constante dos consumidores de comprar mais com menos. “É a ditadura das escolhas dos consumidores que obriga as empresas do sector a encontrar as soluções mais baratas para permanecerem competitivas, algo visível na Ásia, que fabrica a custos reduzidos”, adiantou à AFP.
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