Repercussão do Fashion Pact no Direito da Moda
O lançamento do Pacto da Moda na semana do G7 mostra a nova postura de empresas do setor
Repercussão do Fashion Pact no Direito da Moda. O mês de setembro começou agitado para o setor que move bilhões na economia por ano. Se “setembro é o janeiro da moda”, nas palavras de Candy Pratts Price, foi em seu início que a indústria do setor divulgou para o mundo o denominado Fashion Pact– ou Pacto da Moda, em português. Inspirado na semana de reunião da cúpula do G7, referido acordo mobilizou mais de trinta marcas com iniciativas para um futuro sustentável (dentre elas: Burberry, Chanel, Ermenegildo Zegna, Giorgio Armani, Hermès, Karl Lagerfeld, Moncler, Prada, Ralph Lauren, Salvatore Ferragamo, Stella McCartney, etc.).
O “Fashion Pact” está em concordância com os Objetivos de Desenvolvimento Sustentável (ODS) da ONU e possui três pilares principais: proteção dos oceanos, do clima e da biodiversidade. Sendo uma das maiores vilãs do meio ambiente, a indústria da moda é a segunda mais poluente após a de petróleo, sendo a terceira que mais consome água no mundo, além de ser responsável por 10% das emissões globais de CO2. Cada empresa membro pode escolher cursos de ação apropriados dentre as possibilidades listadas como exemplos de cada compromisso, para atingir os objetivos definidos no Pacto.
Nesse sentido, além de apoiar a adaptação climática e a resiliência por meio do fornecimento sustentável de matérias-primas essenciais (CLIMATE COMMITMENT), busca-se evitar o desmatamento das florestas (BIODIVERSITY COMMITMENT), tendo como acelerador, por exemplo, a economia circular. A preocupação com os oceanos também compõe o conteúdo do Fashion Pact (OCEAN COMMITMENT) e inclui compromissos bastantes debatidos na atualidade, especialmente relacionados à redução e controle no uso de plásticos, microplásticos e materiais sintéticos, altamente poluentes e nocivos à biodiversidade marinha.
A suspensão de aquisição de couro brasileiro por diversas marcas do setor da moda (“boicote do couro”) nessa mesma semana, sob a alegação de que deve haver garantia de respeito às práticas ambientais de produção, por ocasião das queimadas na Amazônia, reflete uma preocupação global com os objetivos do acordo.
Embora trate de um documento não vinculante (chamado pelo direito internacional de “soft law”), pode ser visto como uma diretriz a ser seguida pelas empresas que aderiram ao Pacto. Em termos científicos, mercadológicos e jurídicos, o Fashion Pact tem repercussões relevantes. As metas adotadas pelas empresas são quantitativas e específicas, embasadas em dados científicos.
A adoção por grandes grupos aprimora a igualdade de condições concorrenciais entre eles, mas ainda levanta questionamentos em relação àqueles que não assumiram compromissos: uma das mais notáveis ausências foi a do grupo LVMH (detentor de marcas como Dior, Louis Vuitton e Kenzo).
Deposita-se confiança no cumprimento voluntário, mas questionamentos sobre a necessidade de compromissos vinculantes com sanções específicas sempre perpassa os debates de especialistas.
A despeito de críticas, a iniciativa reforça uma tendência de maior protagonismo de agentes privados na adoção de compromissos ambientais internacionais, especialmente no âmbito da moda. No final de 2018, organizações e empresas (algumas das mesmas que aderiram ao Pacto do G7) assinaram o Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action – Cartilha da Indústria da Moda para Ação Climática –, no âmbito do Acordo de Paris e da Convenção das Nações Unidas sobre as mudanças climáticas. Por meio de tal documento, reconheceram o papel da indústria da moda na redução das emissões de carbono, com a adoção de compromissos específicos de quantificação e redução de emissão de gases estufa, além da adoção de energias renováveis e materiais com baixo impacto ambiental.
Enfim, o documento abre espaço para implementação de iniciativas inovadoras no mercado da moda, e pode significar o desenvolvimento de novos modelos de negócio e novas formas de atuação mais sustentáveis, com resultados efetivos a serem monitorados nos próximos meses.
Renata Domingues Balbino Munhoz Soares é advogada, coordenadora da Pós-Graduação em Direito da Moda da Universidade Presbiteriana Mackenzie e especialista em Fashion Law pelo Milano Fashion Institute.
Eloá Fígaro é professora convidada do curso de Pós-Graduação em Direito da Moda da Universidade Presbiteriana Mackenzie, mestre em Direito Internacional e Comparado pela Universidade de São Paulo.
Sobre a Universidade Presbiteriana Mackenzie
A Universidade Presbiteriana Mackenzie está entre as 100 melhores instituições de ensino da América Latina, segundo a pesquisa QS Quacquarelli Symonds University Rankings, uma organização internacional de pesquisa educacional, que avalia o desempenho de instituições de ensino médio, superior e pós-graduação. Possui três campi no estado de São Paulo, em Higienópolis, Alphaville e Campinas. Os cursos oferecidos pelo Mackenzie contemplam Graduação, Pós-Graduação Mestrado e Doutorado, Pós-Graduação Especialização, Extensão, EaD, Cursos In Company e Centro de Línguas Estrangeiras.
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