Moda Masculina

Riachuelo apresenta CRIA: collab agênero em parceria com jovens designers

Moda com propósito é o que une a gigante do varejo Riachuelo a cinco jovens estilistas de distintas regiões do Brasil: para além da expressão individual, estilo também é representatividade, comunidade e pertencimento. Foi assim que nasceu a CRIA, coleção assinada pelos vencedores do desafio “Qual Moda para qual Mundo?”, idealizado pelo 1º Desafio do Instituto Casa dos Criadores – com apoio do Instituto Riachuelo.

Fernanda Lima, Francceska Jovito, Gabrielle Silva, Geremias Marins e Hector Luquini, são a nova geração de criativos que trazem as suas vivências nas favelas brasileiras como inspiração para cada peça da coleção que, por meio do mood streetwear, esbanjam atitude e contam histórias da cultura dos subúrbios por meio da moda. 

Partindo do viés da consciência e expressão social, camisetas oversized, moletons, calças cargo e wide leg, croppeds, coletes, macacões, parkas, jaquetas e vestidos dão vida a essa narrativa que preza pela versatilidade e conforto, propondo também a ruptura de gênero e a valorização de um estilo urbano com estética visual periférica, muitas vezes, incompreendida, com orgulho.

As tendências e o estilo das ruas são traduzidos em looks com uma cartela que privilegia o P&B, terracota e bege, remetendo às estruturas da arquitetura dos subúrbios, que se desdobram em estampas inspiradas no grafite e molduras urbanas. Entre os destaques, a estampa origens apresenta em um vestido e blusa de tule inúmeras gírias e frase como: Oxi, Né, Massa, Bicho, Fita, “Pega a visão”, “Mó Cota” e tantas outras verbalizadas nas ruas de periferias e cidades do país.

Confeccionada na Guararapes, fábrica da Riachuelo em Natal, no Rio Grande do Norte, com 100% de energia renovável, a coleção preza pelo reaproveitamento de tecidos e aviamentos que estavam no estoque da operação fabril da marca – usados nas cores originais para evitar o tingimento e estampas digitais, com a premissa de reduzir o impacto ambiental.

Campanha

A campanha traz os cinco estilistas como estrelas dos filmetes e fotos para retratar a collab através de um cenário industrial e street, que transmite a complementaridade da coleção com o cenário urbano. Não há distinção de periferias e cidades, trata-se de uma fusão do que é o país, convidando a todos a vivenciarem a essência da cultura nacional.

O lançamento oficial da coleção CRIA e a pré-venda online, aconteceu no dia 16 de julho, encerrando a última semana da 52ª edição da semana de moda Casa dos Criadores, e já está disponível em lojas selecionadas e no e-commerce da Riachuelo.

Sobre os jovens estilistas

Vindos da Bahia, Mina Gerais, São Paulo e Rio de Janeiro, unidos pelo dom nato para a moda e a busca por aperfeiçoamento, os participantes do grupo de estudo Bôboàpi no 1º Desafio do Instituto da Casa dos Criadores, programa que tem como foco a educação, pesquisa e capacitação gratuita de artistas, estilistas e diferentes profissionais ligados aos universos da moda e da arte, Fernanda, Francceska, Gabrielle, Geremias e Hector se uniram na idealização do CRIA. Nome que faz um paradoxo com o dialeto das ruas e vivência nas periferias.

“Não é a cor da pele que nos une, é a vivência”, diz Gabrielle, de apenas 25 anos, moradora de São Gabriel, periferia de Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais. A jovem designer sintetiza bem os laços que fizeram da coleção Cria um sucesso: “construímos looks em cima da viabilidade de sobras de produtos, sem rótulos e que prezam pelo conforto, todo mundo pode usar. E mais que isso, focamos na falta de visibilidade da estética periférica na moda, vista ainda como uma forma muito estigmatizada. Periferia não é só pobreza ou violência, ela borbulha cultura, moda, arte, música e dança”.

Foi com esse denominador em comum que os cinco optaram por, como eles mesmos falam: “mostrar que não é sobre pessoas pretas, é sobre pessoas pretas fazendo coisas. Desta forma, definimos que a equipe por trás de toda a criação teria que ser diversa e ter familiaridade com a nossa história”.Francceska Jovito

Hector, o mais novo deles, complementa dizendo que “a escolha fala por si só. A maioria da população preta está na periferia, não faço parte de uma favela, mas está muito próxima da minha realidade. Acredito na moda como uma forma de transmitir conflitos internos e ideais”. 

“De que forma a moda está me alcançando?”. Esse foi um dos questionamentos que Francceska, modelo mineira, de Teófilo Otoni, e dona da marca Cafundó teve ao se desafiar junto ao grupo na temática. “Modelei desde os meus 15 anos, tive que alisar o cabelo, me portar de uma maneira que não era a minha, que era nitidamente influenciada pela branquitude da indústria na época. Olho e vejo que estou vivendo a transição do segmento, chegando neste momento que, por meio do Instituto Casa dos Criadores e da Riachuelo, num mundo pós-pandêmico, podemos nos expressar”, celebra.

Geremias, cientista econômico e criativo da marca EUSOU, vê na decisão um ato de representatividade. “Sou uma das pessoas na favela que eu moro, que se veste com um estilo diferente, acho bacana quando as crianças me veem e comentam: você parece um jogador de futebol. Me torno uma referência, por meio da moda, que fala mais sobre possibilidade”. A moda que sai da periferia é muito criticada no país, fora daqui acompanhamos um movimento inverso. A moda é arte, ela se renova. Hoje vejo mais homens com croppeds e saias, e isso não tem a ver com sexualidade, tem a ver com se comunicar e resistir em certos locais”, conclui o designer.

No fim, mais um elo entre eles foi criado, a experiência imersiva que a Riachuelo os proporcionou ao levá-los para o parque fabril da Companhia no Nordeste. “A partir do momento que pisei na fábrica, deixei de comprar somente uma peça nas araras de uma loja, passei a comprar também uma história por trás daquela peça, vi o impacto real na vida de todas aquelas pessoas. Visitamos toda a fábrica, almoçamos com eles, eles tiravam fotos conosco”, relembra Fernanda, baiana, dona da marca Nitàh, neta de costureira e hoje tem o apoio da mãe, Cristina, tendo a sorte também de ser apadrinhada por uma ‘maínha’ da costura, a Meire. “Minha avó me criou, ela nunca quis ensinar para os filhos a arte da costura, dizia que não queria um filho costurando sem ter condição de utilizar aquela peça algum dia. Mas, hoje ela vê que estou trabalhando com isso e que estou colhendo frutos”.

Sobre o Instituto Riachuelo:

Criado com o propósito de transformar vidas por meio da geração de trabalho e renda, o Instituto Riachuelo promove o desenvolvimento econômico e social, impactando cerca de 250 pequenos e médios empreendedores e beneficiando indiretamente 50 mil pessoas no Sertão do Rio Grande do Norte, berço da companhia homônima que possui 75 anos de história. Inicialmente a organização está estruturada para atender cinco principais pilares: empreendedorismo e desenvolvimento da comunidade, que inclui projetos na cadeia têxtil, como oficinas de costura, o artesanato e bordado potiguar e o cultivo de algodão agroecológico; educação e capacitação profissional, por meio do programa “Jovem Empreendedor” em parceria com a Junior Achievement e pela viabilização de bolsas de estudo para filhos de colaboradores, em parceria com o SESI e Sistema FIERN; economia de reciclagem têxtil em circuito fechado, apoiando o Grupo Guararapes em sua parceria com o IPT (Instituto de Pesquisas Tecnológicas) para trabalhar a circularidade das peças na cadeia produtiva e dar nova vida a resíduos têxteis; doações, buscando organizações que desenvolvem um trabalho sério para promover impacto positivo na vida de crianças e jovens pelo país; e saúde e bem-estar, que promove programas de saúde no sertão. 

Sobre a Riachuelo

Com 75 anos de história, a Riachuelo trabalha com o propósito de conectar desejos a realizações. Unindo inovação, dinamismo e agilidade para entregar coleções e produtos para todos os estilos, a rede é uma das principais referências do setor e é reconhecida como uma das maiores empresas de moda do Brasil. São mais de 30 milhões de clientes no cartão Riachuelo e mais de 390 lojas próprias espalhadas pelo país.

Fábio Monnerat

Consultor de marketing de moda e tendências, criador digital e um grande entusiasta da moda masculina.

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  472. According to my research, after a in foreclosure process home is available at an auction, it is common for the borrower in order to still have a remaining balance on the loan. There are many loan companies who try to have all costs and liens paid by the future buyer. Even so, depending on selected programs, polices, and state laws and regulations there may be quite a few loans which are not easily resolved through the exchange of financial loans. Therefore, the responsibility still rests on the lender that has had his or her property foreclosed on. Thank you for sharing your ideas on this blog.

  473. Howdy! I know this is kind of off topic but I was wondering if you knew where I could get a captcha plugin for my comment form? I’m using the same blog platform as yours and I’m having difficulty finding one? Thanks a lot!

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  527. After I initially left a comment I seem to have clicked the -Notify me when new comments are added- checkbox and now each time a comment is added I recieve 4 emails with the exact same comment. There has to be a means you can remove me from that service? Many thanks.

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  543. One other issue is when you are in a predicament where you will not have a cosigner then you may genuinely wish to try to make use of all of your educational funding options. You will find many awards and other scholarship grants that will present you with funding to support with institution expenses. Thx for the post.

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