10 temas que definirão a Agenda de Moda em 2020
A indústria da moda enfrenta um ano preocupante pela frente. O contexto macroeconômico é desafiador e os participantes descobrirão que o caminho para a criação de valor não é claro ou requer níveis de investimento difíceis de engolir. A digitalização continua sendo crítica, enquanto os participantes devem abordar as crescentes preocupações dos consumidores com a sustentabilidade, se quiserem garantir seu futuro.
No geral, o McKinsey Global Fashion Index prevê que a indústria da moda continuará a crescer de 3 a 4% em 2020, um pouco mais lenta do que a estimativa de 3,5 a 4,5% de 2019. Essa desaceleração resultará da cautela crescente dos consumidores em meio a uma incerteza macroeconômica mais ampla, revolta política em todo o mundo e a contínua ameaça de guerras comerciais .
Naturalmente, essa incerteza é refletida em nossa pesquisa anual de executivos sênior da BoF-McKinsey. Surpreendentemente, apenas 9% dos entrevistados pensam que as condições para a indústria melhorarão este ano, em comparação com 49% que disseram o mesmo no ano passado. “Desafiador”, “incerto” e “perturbador” foram as palavras mais usadas para descrever a indústria, em comparação com as “mudanças” mais neutras do ano passado, “digital” e “rápido”.
Outra divergência em relação aos anos anteriores é que agora o pessimismo é amplamente verdadeiro, independentemente da região ou segmento, com mais da metade dos entrevistados em todas as regiões prevendo um ambiente em deterioração. A região mais otimista é a Ásia, embora, mesmo lá, apenas 14% dos executivos esperem uma melhoria nas condições. E no luxo, onde o desempenho tem sido forte, ainda há pouca esperança de recuperação.
Nossos dez temas definidores para 2020 são uma evolução acentuada em relação aos anos anteriores, com os riscos mais próximos e mais graves. O que está claro é que seguir um caminho de turbulência à frente, agora mais do que nunca, exige que as empresas estejam sintonizadas com seu ambiente e sejam ágeis em suas respostas. Embora os vencedores no topo mantenham seu domínio no setor, o restante terá que trabalhar ainda mais para acompanhar o ritmo.
Os 10 temas da indústria da moda que definirão a agenda em 2020:
Recomenda-se cautela contínua para o próximo ano, pois a crescente turbulência subjacente pode atrapalhar as relações entre economias de mercado desenvolvidas e emergentes. Os indicadores de risco de recessão estão estimulando as empresas de todos os setores a criar um manual de resiliência e planejar outros riscos macro como instabilidade geopolítica e inflamação das tensões comerciais.
A China continuará a oferecer oportunidades interessantes e a desempenhar um papel de liderança na indústria da moda global, mas o mercado colossal está se mostrando mais difícil de quebrar do que as marcas antecipavam. À medida que alguns atores de sucesso se tornam excessivamente dependentes da China e outros lutam, as empresas devem considerar a possibilidade de expandir seus riscos expandindo para outras regiões geográficas de alto crescimento.
À medida que os modelos tradicionais de engajamento lutam em plataformas de mídia social estabelecidas, os participantes da moda precisam repensar sua estratégia e encontrar maneiras de maximizar seu retorno sobre os gastos com marketing. O conteúdo que chama a atenção será essencial, implantado na plataforma certa para cada mercado, usando frases de chamariz persuasivas e, sempre que possível, um link direto para a finalização da compra.
A demanda do consumidor por conveniência e imediatismo está levando os varejistas a complementar as redes existentes com lojas de menor formato que atendem aos clientes onde quer que estejam e reduzem o atrito na jornada do cliente. A fórmula vencedora contará com experiências na loja e sortimentos localizados em bairros e subúrbios além das principais vias de compras.
A indústria da moda global consome extremamente energia, polui e desperdiça. Apesar de alguns progressos modestos, a moda ainda não levou a sério suas responsabilidades ambientais. No próximo ano, os participantes da moda precisam trocar banalidades e ruídos promocionais por ações significativas e conformidade regulatória, enquanto atendem à demanda do consumidor por mudanças transformacionais.
As marcas de moda estão explorando alternativas aos materiais padrão atuais, com os principais participantes focados em substitutos mais sustentáveis, que incluem favoritos antigos redescobertos e redesenhados recentemente, além de materiais de alta tecnologia que proporcionam estética e funcionalidade. Esperamos que a P&D se concentre cada vez mais na ciência de materiais para novas fibras, têxteis, acabamentos e outras inovações de materiais a serem usadas em escala.
Consumidores e funcionários estão pressionando cada vez mais as empresas de moda a se tornarem defensoras pró-ativas da diversidade e da inclusão. Mais empresas elevam a diversidade e a inclusão como uma prioridade mais alta, incorporam-na à organização e contratam papéis de liderança dedicados, mas as iniciativas das empresas também passam por um exame minucioso em termos de sinceridade e resultados.
Marcas e varejistas de moda estabelecidos enfrentarão uma concorrência crescente de novos concorrentes asiáticos, à medida que fabricantes e PMEs abandonam seus papéis tradicionais e vendem diretamente a consumidores globais. Espere uma maior concorrência de players até então desconhecidos da cadeia de suprimentos asiáticos que projetam itens populares para vender a preços acessíveis usando plataformas de comércio eletrônico transfronteiriças.
As feiras tradicionais devem responder ao aumento da atividade direta ao consumidor, ciclos de moda mais curtos e digitalização, adotando novos papéis e ajustando seu público-alvo. Em uma tentativa de se diferenciar – ou mesmo apenas de sobreviver – mais desses eventos adicionarão atrações B2C ou lançarão novos serviços e experiências para melhorar o relacionamento com o público B2B tradicional.
As avaliações dos participantes da moda digital atingiram níveis vertiginosos e, apesar de uma série de IPOs de alto perfil e empresas privadas atingindo o status de unicórnio, o sentimento dos investidores está piorando. A apreensão dos investidores está crescendo no caminho da lucratividade para alguns players digitais, de varejistas e mercados on-line pure play, a marcas diretas ao consumidor e outros modelos de negócios digitais.
Curte o nosso conteúdo? Vale lembrar que pra você ficar por dentro de todas as tendências do mundo da moda masculina, grooming e footwear, seguindo nosso editor Fábio Monnerat no Instagram.
Fonte:BOF
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